On The Scene: Sao Paulo

February 02, 2007

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My first day in Sao Paulo was a tough transition after the weekend in Rio: the fashion shows are held inside the Biennial building at Ibirapuera Park instead of the tents at Marina da Gloria with a view of the Sugar Loaf (and close proximity to the beach). The building is a much bigger version of the tents at Bryant Park in New York, and holds a media room filled with computers, three rooms for the shows, and several lounges sponsored by national magazines in which champagne and drinks float around all evening.

I skipped the first show in the morning and headed to Ibirapuera right after lunch in order to collect my credentials and to get used to the building. I had to attend the Tufi Duek show as two of my very best friends are the head designers of the brand, but the show I was really looking forward to was the 8 o'clock one for my favorite Brazilian label, Osklen.

Ellus

For fall 2007, Osklen followed the same formula from seasons past, which seems to always please its active and eco-friendly clientele. The parade of Amazon guardians sent out on the runway was dressed in washed and worn-out organic wool knits, fishskins, and taffeta windbreakers. The men's collection opened with model Alexis Vinas in long johns, and maintained a tapered leg throughout. Light camouflage short shorts were paired with printed red sweatshirts (the prints this season were inspired by tribal geometric motifs and feathers). The high top sneakers with velcro closures and a smart side zipper, which came in silver and gold, are destined to fly off the shelves as soon as they make their way to the stores. I will certainly be getting a pair.

Osklen

The big expectation of the day was Alexandre Herchcovitch's women's presentation, which started an hour late and caused a frenzy at the door. Anna Wintour's favorite Brazilian, Caroline Trentini, opened the show, making it her fourth first entrance of the day. Mr. Herchcovitch, however, did not tap into new territory this season, and his collection was full of familiar pieces: jumpsuits, vinyl dresses, and a blend of colorful flower prints and tartans. At that point though, I was more interested in deciding which party to hit for the opening day of Sao Paulo Fashion Week.

My friends at Tufi Duek convinced me to go to the designer's party with them, and I am glad they did it. The view from Terraco Italia, where Mr. Duek spent some serious cash to entertain his guests, was truly amazing, and the crowd encompassed every major name in the Brazilian fashion biz. After dancing until 3am, I got to share a Britney (no panties) moment with designer Lenny Niemeyer, who is the most fun person to party with in this country. In spite of not having the beach in my sight in Sao Paulo, I thought things were off to a good start.

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